What’s it like to stay at one of Ljubljana’s most legendary hotels? I finally spent the night there — something I’d dreamed of since childhood.

By Marijana Podhraški

A Place for the Great and the Curious

Grand Hotel Union is one of Ljubljana’s oldest hotels. Its construction began in April 1904, less than a decade after the devastating Ljubljana earthquake of 1895. From the very beginning, the hotel was regarded as an important milestone for the city. With it, Ljubljana wanted to show Europe that it was still standing. And not only that. It was also sending a message that it intended to follow the path of Europe’s most progressive cities.

Grand Hotel Union is located on Miklošičeva Street in the center of Ljubljana.

Designed by architect Josip Vancaš, the first modern hotel in Ljubljana was designed in the Secessionist style, with its distinctive Art Nouveau aesthetic. It was considered one of the most advanced hotels in the entire Austro-Hungarian Empire, featuring an elevator, electricity, central heating and a large banquet hall — all true rarities at the beginning of the 20th century.

When it opened in October 1905, the hotel had 120 rooms, restaurants, a café, a wine cellar, a garden, a garage for automobiles — originally stables for horses — and a large concert hall. Ljubljana’s high society gathered here, distinguished guests from around the world stayed under its roof, and some of Slovenia’s greatest minds of the era met in its famous hotel café.

The elegant lines of its Art Nouveau architecture blend seamlessly with understated modernity, from the imposing doors and Secessionist stained glass at the entrance to the magnificent staircases and chandeliers.

An original Art Nouveau stained-glass window, now on display in the hotel lobby.

The Book of Important Guests

Those of us who love historic hotels are always fascinated by the important figures who have stayed in them. In the case of the Grand Hotel Union, the list is exceptionally long — from members of royal families and movie stars to celebrated athletes and politicians.

All their names have been carefully recorded in the hotel’s substantial guest book. But that is far from all: alongside their names are their signatures and short personal messages dedicated to their stay in the hotel.

The hotel’s Chief Concierge, Domen Pavlič, was happy to show me one of the hotel’s greatest treasures: its guest book of distinguished guests.

During my stay, Domen Pavlič, the hotel’s Front Office Manager and Chief Concierge, showed me Union’s treasured book of famous guests. As he carefully turned its pages, I read some of the messages — from brief words of thanks to the hotel and its staff to longer, more emotional notes. Each guest had left a personal mark.

Queen Elizabeth II, who stayed at the Grand Hotel Union with her husband, Prince Philip, during a visit to Slovenia, left only her signature in the book. Philip did the same — perhaps that is simply royal protocol.

Some of the hotel’s other distinguished and intriguing former guests, however, had rather more to say. Among them were the former James Bond actor Roger Moore; American rocker Lenny Kravitz; former US presidential couple Bill and Hillary Clinton; former Czech president Václav Havel and the first president of Slovenia, Milan Kučan.

According to hotel’s guest book, Milan Kučan stayed at the Grand Hotel Union in 1997.

Room 160

The four-storey hotel enjoys an exceptionally convenient location on Miklošičeva Street, just a stone’s throw from Prešeren Square, and offers spacious rooms equipped with the latest technology.

Among them are the so-called Iconic Suites, which are a particular source of pride for the hotel thanks to their generous proportions and exceptional level of comfort: the Grand Union Suite, measuring more than 130 square metres; the 80-square-metre Grand Corner Suite; and the 70-square-metre Corner Suite.

The view from the Corner Suite.

Under the umbrella of the Eurostars Hotels chain, half of the hotel’s 111 rooms have undergone extensive renovation. The result is a fresh, contemporary feel that nevertheless preserves the grandeur and spirit of the hotel’s remarkable past.

I stepped into Room 160 just as the warm golden autumn light was spilling across the space like liquid gold. There was something instantly calming about it. The soft, flowing curves of the armchair, smooth wooden panelling, Art Deco lights and lamps all seemed to evoke the spirit of Ljubljana at the beginning of the 20th century — a Ljubljana that knew how to combine art, tradition and modernity into something that left a profound mark, something we still talk about today.

The living room area is spacious and elegantly decorated.

If Ljubljana had a heart, I thought, perhaps it would be here, at the end of a long hotel corridor, in Room 160 — as I stood captivated by the interior of my temporary refuge.

A journey back 100 years, surrounded by the elegance of Art Nouveau.

When I finally stepped into the bedroom, another surprise awaited me: a view of the colourful Vurnik House, an architectural masterpiece that has long enjoyed a reputation as one of the most beautiful buildings in the Slovenian capital. It was the perfect visual detail, the cherry on top of my special evening. A moment when everything — the space, the light and the memories — came together in perfect harmony.

Such a cosy bedroom — I slept like a baby.

Say hello to Vurnik House, Ljubljana’s most cheerful building.

The hotel also offers a fitness and wellness centre with a swimming pool, while the building itself houses shops, an event hall and a conference centre.

First, a dip in the jacuzzi, then a relaxing Thai massage.

Still the Pride of Ljubljana

For me, the Grand Hotel Union Eurostars was more than simply a place to spend the night. It was an experience of the city I live in and truly love, presented in one of its most refined forms. It was also an encounter with a precious piece of Ljubljana’s identity — one that I hope will never fade.

Night view from Room 160’s balcony.

In a city changing at an ever-faster pace, where new hotels continue to appear, including five-star properties, none of them, to me, can recreate the feeling and beauty of a building with a history.

Glass, gleaming hotel lobbies and the scent of brand-new furniture — there is nothing wrong with any of that, of course. But it is not the same. A new hotel gives you comfort. A historic hotel gives you a soul as well.

For bookings, check the Grand Hotel Union’s official website.